May 29, 2023



The Absolutely Complete Guide to Rock Climbing Training

The Absolutely Complete Guide to Rock Climbing Training

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Welcome to Climbing’s Training Colossus—bookmark this page and you’ll never need to search for training information again. If you are serious or only mildly interested in training, we’ve got you covered with over 120 articles by climbing’s premier trainers, from coaches Neil Gresham  and Steve Bechtel, to pro climber Heather Weidner to nutritionalist Marisa Michael. Want to dial up your power, fortify your endurance, figure out the best fingerboard workout for you? Or maybe you just want to get in shape with overall conditioning, or even limber up so you can reach those footholds. It’s all here and then some. Peruse, train, improve, and above all, be safe and go climbing.

Use This Training Program To Send Your Hardest Route Ever

Be Your Own Training Coach—10 Tips For Building A Simple, Effective Program

The Training Bible: Everything You Need For A Full Year, Right Here. Phase 1: Conditioning

Never Get Pumped Again | A Three-Part Training Series from Steve Bechtel

Training Plateaus Suck. Here’s How to Break Yours

Learn How to Stave Off Pump with Heart-Rate Monitor Training

4 Surprising Facts For Female Climbers For Better Training And Harder Sending

Why Gymnastics Rings and Suspension Systems Are The Ideal Training Tools

Why Gymnastics Rings and Suspension Systems Are The Ideal Training Tools

Is the Grippūl Two the Best Finger-Training Device Ever?

Training on a Board? Better Read This.

10 Pro Training Tips That Can Help Anyone Improve

Sick of Your Training Regime? Climbing Gym Crowded? Try These Alternates.

How Much (and When) Should Kids be Training?

The Latest Research-Backed Training Insights for Climbers 

A Full Year of Training—This Step-By-Step Weekly Plan Is All You Need To Know

Your Guide To Off-the-Wall Training

Six Ways To Increase Power Without Training More

It’s A Mistake To Mix Skills And Strength Training. Here’s Why.

Training: Perfect Pull-Ups for Climbing Strength

Our Top 10 Training Articles Of The Year

Training On the Go: Here’s Your Holiday Workout

The Training Secrets of the Russian Ice Climbing Team

What Boards Won’t Teach You: Training for Weird Moves

Select Training Articles for Climbing Members: Get Fit After 40, Training Mistakes, Go From 5.9 to 5.10 and More

5 Training Myths That Are Probably Hurting You

What Happens When a 5.9 Climber Starts Training Like a Pro?

What Should You Be Training? This Flowchart Can Tell You

Jonathan Siegrist: How to Get Stronger? Turn Climbing into Training

The Complete Guide to Rock Climbing Training, 5 Lessons

Are You Wasting Your Time When Training Power?

Can’t Reach the Holds? This Home Training Program Will Have You Locking Off Like a Monster

5 Training Mistakes You Are Making That You Can Fix Now Without Really Trying

Three Tips for Training on the Road

3 Common Power-Endurance Training Mistakes

Training Plan: Mantle/Press Out/Compression Strength Plus Thin Vertical Strength Program

Training: How to Warm Up for Limit Bouldering

Mental Training: Focus Your Attention to Control Your Mental Game

Choose Your Own (Training) Adventure: 10 On-The-Wall Climbing Workouts

Training: Build Mental Climbing Strength

Training: Rotating-Wall Workouts

Training: Improve Your Head Game

Training: 6 Ways to Make Any Exercise More Climbing Specific

8 Pro Climbers Share Their Top Training Tips

Training: 16 Climbing Games To Keep You Stoked and Fit

Training: Advanced Conditioning for Alpine Climbing

Learn This: Mental Training for Climbers

Prepare for Battle: Training for Offwidths

Tech Tip – Training – Cheater’s Banquet

4 Grip Techniques For Milking The Most Out Of Handholds

Case Study: 6 Weeks to Stronger Fingers Worked For Me

Never Get Pumped Again, Part 1: Endurance Is “Fatigue Management”

Never Get Pumped Again, Part 2: The Secret Is…A Bouldering Wall?!

Never Get Pumped Again, Part 3: Steve Bechtel’s 6 Fail-Proof Bouldering-Wall Workouts

The Six Drills Pro Climbers Use to Stay Relaxed on the Wall

Three Easy Exercises to Heal Tight Wrists and Fingers

Best to Avoid These 5 Common Gym-to-Crag Mistakes

Don’t Let Lower Back Pain Sideline You, Do These Simple Exercises Instead

You Start To Lose 25% Of Your Strength At Age 25. Here’s What To Do About That.

Should I train strength or technique?

Your Brain on Plastic: A Coach Gives Mental Techniques for Transitioning from the Gym to the Great Outdoors

How Much (and When) Should You Actually Rest?

How To Maximize Your Home Climbing Wall

A Pro Trainer’s Advice For Keeping The Pump At Bay

Three Surefire Exercises for Super Human Grip Strength

Putty Up for Stronger Hands and Fingers!

4 Gym Exercises All Climbers Should Do

Getting Older? Here’s What Coach Says To Do To Keep Cranking


The Critical Role of Climbing Warm Ups and Stretches

Will “Getting Swole” Help Your Climbing or Weigh You Down?

Turn Weakness Into Strength—By Pumping Iron

How To Use Nutrition Like a Performance-enhancing Drug

Stop Bragging About How Much You Train—The Science Says Quality Beats Quantity

How to Train for Climbing by Climbing Outside

How to Hangboard


What Science Says: How Long You Should Rest Between Send Goes

Support Weak Arms With Strong Legs. These Simple Exercises Will Up Your Game.

Climb Hard for Multiple Days on with This 15-Minute Yoga Routine

Everything You Need to Know About Campus Boarding

How To Climb Harder Without Getting Stronger…Visualize!

Coach’s Advice For Avoiding Torn Shoulders, Blown Elbows and Twanged Fingers

Doctor’s Orders: Keep Your Fingers Happy and Healthy

Tap The Flow State To Climb Your Best. Sounds Absurd? Believe It.

Improve Two Grades Instantly With Coach’s Magic-Bullet Advice. Six Tips That Actually Work.

5 Ways To Get Out of Your Winter Climbing Slump

Should You Train Full Crimped?

How Much Should You Really Train? A Pro Coach’s Advice.

How One of America’s Best Sport Climbers Maintains Her Psych for Climbing

Increase Your Pinch Strength and Squeeze With Ease

How Acro Yoga Helped Me Finally Send 5.13a

3 Easy Exercises To Do Every Day

Nine Tips to Keep Your Endurance This Winter

New Year, New You? Beware of Lousy Climbing Trainers.

Six Proven Exercises to Chisel Your Core

Five Yoga-Inspired Exercises For Climbers

The Essential Push-Up, Why It Helps And How To Do It (And 12 Variations) Correctly

Bombproof Your Shoulders in Just 15 Minutes a Day

4 Ways to Build Lungs of Steel (Without Running!)

Need More Endurance? Use a Hangboard

Five One-Hour Workouts to Fit Your Frantic Schedule

Should You Add Weight or Use Smaller Holds on a Hangboard?

Conditioning for Climbers: Fitness and Strength Are Not the Same

How Much Should You Train?

Are You Ready To Start Hangboarding?

10 Climbing-Specific TRX Exercises You Should Do Every Week

How and Why to Train on the Moonboard

7 Ways to (Secretly) Train for Climbing

Need Stronger Fingers?

4 Ways to Train Smarter in the Gym to Climb Harder Outside

10 Exercises for a Complete Climber Core

Short on time? Try this twice-weekly 45-minute circuit workout

Want to Climb for the Rest of Your Life? Make Sure you Prevent Muscle Imbalances

How to Get Stronger by Doing Nothing for 5 Minutes a Day

Lacking Power? Here’s How to Moonboard


Tired of Stagnation? Here Are 5 Pro-Tips That Will Break Through Your Plateau

Learn to Train for Rock Climbing: Improve Your Climbing Technique

Learn to Train For Climbing: The Proven Way to Get Stronger Fingers

Learn to Train for Rock Climbing: Increase Your Power

Learn to Train: Local Endurance for Climbers

More Power! A Woman’s Guide to Bouldering Strength